2015 – Christmas in Naples, Italy, from the outside

A look back (first published on 24 December 2015): Christmas in Naples – different but not so different.

The Phraser

A Christmas light by the San Paolo football stadium in Naples, Italy A Christmas light by the San Paolo football stadium in Naples, Italy

The sun shines in Naples and the streets are full.  Many are just out for the occasion, to watch and be watched, and others to shop, to sell, to beg, to walk the dog.

It’s definitely Christmas but it never stops being Naples – nothing is drowned in jingles or jolliness.

View original post 632 more words

An elephant, a bird, and an offer

A look back (first published 14 February 2015)

The Phraser

Carved elephant An irresistible elephant

I wasn’t looking for any of the above but somehow they found me.  That’s what Naples does.

My elephant – she’s now mine – spent days for sale on the steep, wintery steps outside the huge post office near the city centre.

I passed her twice a week en route to class.  It was hard to miss her.  My head was full of elephants and there she was, big and awkward in amongst the trinkets and faded pictures.

Then yesterday, on an impulse, I roped together my Italian and my courage, and paused.

View original post 375 more words

2015 – Christmas in Naples, Italy, from the outside

A Christmas light by the San Paolo football stadium in Naples, Italy

A Christmas light by the San Paolo football stadium in Naples, Italy

The sun shines in Naples and the streets are full.  Many are just out for the occasion, to watch and be watched, and others to shop, to sell, to beg, to walk the dog.

It’s definitely Christmas but it never stops being Naples – nothing is drowned in jingles or jolliness.

Continue reading

The hands of Naples

The shoe polisher at the heart of the commute on Via Toledo

The shoe polisher at the heart of the commute on Via Toledo

The morning walk to work files to and fro through the city.  On a good day some will stop to add a shine to their shoes.

Continue reading

Where to go when the words fail

“Simple,” we thought.  “We’ll learn Italian.  ‘Pizza’, ‘vino’ … can’t be difficult.”

Continue reading

The eyes in the doorways of Naples

 

There are more eyes in Naples than there are doorways. In August there is the space to feel them both as they sit out the heat, and watch.

Continue reading