The best drivers in the world?

A look back (first published 12 February 2015): this was an evening that confirmed what I had begun to realise about driving in Naples … that rules and road rage are for wimps, and that care and courage are what’s needed. As well-trained wimps we had a lot to learn.

The Phraser

The roads into Naples The roads that dive off the tangenziale into Naples

“Are you sure you know the way?”

“Yes.”

“Is it really better than my way?”

“Yes.”   Louder, wounded, exasperated, emphatic.

“Okay – your directions have got to be clear.”  Ominous …

The tyres rattle and echo off the tunnel walls.  It’s six o’clock in the evening, a bright, dark night and all of Naples seems in a rush to get somewhere.

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Spanner in the works

A look back (first published 20 October 2014)

The Phraser

A quiet moment in one of the large cobbled tunnels that lead in and out of the centre of Naples An unusually quiet moment in one of the large cobbled tunnels that lead in and out of the centre of Naples

Nothing is ever quite what you expect it to be …

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Wolfed on the Napoli tangenziale

A look back (first published on 27 August 2014)

The Phraser

‘Chi pecora se fa’ ‘o lupo s’ ‘a magna’ – behave like a sheep and the wolf will eat you.Chi pecora se fa’ ‘o lupo s’ ‘a magna’ – behave like a sheep and the wolf will eat you.

What a beautiful day.
We’re not scared.

On a hot weekend afternoon we crammed four bodies into our Fiat 500 and headed down to the Naple’s seafront for a stroll and a pizza. The only obstacle between us and the chef was the tangenziale.

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Napoli’s tangenziale – fine if you can find it

A look back (first published on 24 August 2014)

The Phraser

Naples, two thirds of the way down Italy’s west coast, is the country’s third largest city with a population of 2.373 million. It sprawls up from the bay at its feet and is separated from the Amalfi Coast by Vesuvius and Pompeii. Centuries of geologists, historians, artists, and adventurers have all visited its treasures and each has left their mark on a city that is now tourist-wise and wary. This summer we called in – our first encounter of substance was with the tangenziale.

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Driving in Naples, Italy: spanner in the works

A quiet moment in one of the large cobbled tunnels that lead in and out of the centre of Naples

An unusually quiet moment in one of the large cobbled tunnels that lead in and out of the centre of Naples

Nothing is ever quite what you expect it to be …

Continue reading

Wolfed on the Napoli tangenziale

‘Chi pecora se fa’ ‘o lupo s’ ‘a magna’ – behave like a sheep and the wolf will eat you.

Chi pecora se fa’ ‘o lupo s’ ‘a magna’ – behave like a sheep and the wolf will eat you.

What a beautiful day.
We’re not scared.

On a hot weekend afternoon we crammed four bodies into our Fiat 500 and headed down to the Naple’s seafront for a stroll and a pizza. The only obstacle between us and the chef was the tangenziale.
Continue reading

Napoli’s tangenziale – fine if you can find it

Naples, two thirds of the way down Italy’s west coast, is the country’s third largest city with a population of 2.373 million. It sprawls up from the bay at its feet and is separated from the Amalfi Coast by Vesuvius and Pompeii. Centuries of geologists, historians, artists, and adventurers have all visited its treasures and each has left their mark on a city that is now tourist-wise and wary. This summer we called in – our first encounter of substance was with the tangenziale.
Continue reading